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It' s] an invention of the American market, " said Koltes. More specifically, thread count isn' t so much a " lie" as it is a falsified way to determine to the quality of sheets, especially when it' s used as the only way to determine quality. Just as we attach labels like " low- fat" and " organic" to food, linen retailers extended this to luxury linens in the mid- 1990s, Koltes explains.